Lisbon, Lisbon, Lisbon — a name that feels like a refrain. The Portuguese capital holds a particular pull, and somehow, it always draws me back. I return every year, watching as the city subtly reshapes itself, layering the new over the familiar.
This time, I came for a seminar on creativity and design — a fitting theme for a country where design isn’t just a trend but a quiet force of national identity. Portugal may not boast Europe’s biggest design week, but it’s one of its great workshops: a place where production, craft, and artistry meet. And then, of course, there’s Lisbon’s irresistible charm, which continues to lure the global creative crowd on their so-called “working holidays.” Who hasn’t been seduced by this city, tiled facades, its sense of authenticity?
I come so often that I rarely feel the need to “report” from Lisbon anymore. Flicking through my old notes, I realised my last proper dispatch was quite a while ago. So here’s a short update — a snapshot, really — of what’s new and noteworthy.
Last December, I arrived chasing a bit of festive atmosphere. I revisited favourites like Depozito for a dose of vintage treasure-hunting, then wandered down Rua de São Bento — better known as “Yellow Street” — where a cluster of young designers are shaping Lisbon’s next creative district. Among the city’s newer landmarks, the design museum was freshly opened, Kengo Kuma’s striking new building for Gulbenkian had just been unveiled, and even Zara’s concept store in Rossio hinted at a shift in how retail design meets the local aesthetic.
Snap shots from last year.
Lovely cafes in Lisbon.
The new retail concept by Zara. Local pastries and cafe to make people come to the store.
The new design museum is an old bank.
The new entrance by Kengo Kuma for Gulbenkian.
Of course always a must – Depozito. One of my favourite stores in the whole world.
And just a glimpse at one of the stores at Rua dos Poiais de Sao Bento – which is this district of emerging designers. I think this might be the Kintu Store. Could be a neighbour…
And of course – vintage shopping. Love classical Portuguese glasses. But not telling you where. It’s my secret.
So, 2025. How was it? Of course always nice. It is getting a bit more and more touristic. I talked to some locals at the conference I was attending, and the Portugese have a mixed emotion about their capital. It is getting expensive and we have all read about how Airb’n’b is taking over. One guy actually said “it feels like going to another country”, when he was talking about Lisbon. And I get that… But even when it is crowded with tourists – it is still very nice.
First stop was MAAT, the contemporary art museum designed by Zaha Hadid. It’s always nice. Also by the river. It doesn’t matter so much what they are showing. It is a nice venue.
After that I stopped at newly opened private collection at MACAM. They have a fun concept. They have a small hotel inside the museum, so basically you could stay overnight with art. Unfortunately the rooms looked soooooooooo white and boring so I skipped it. But nice concept.
Then lunch at terrible, terrible LX Factory. It is touristy, terrible, bad and horrible. Don’t go.
A taxi ride to the best design gallery in the city. It is called Made In Situ and founded by Noe Duchaufour-Lawrance, who is French but lives in Lisbon.
They made a collection based on stones from the Duoro valley. They had carvings and it reminded me of my Scandinavian rune stones.
And a stop at the design museum MUDE.
And here I got to see one of the most beautiful design exhibitions I have ever seen. It was based on Vivienne Westwood but in these bank vaults.
Amazing
As a bonus, I got to see a graphical design exhibition about a designer who was very active in the 80s and 90s. Love, love, love. His name is Joao Machado and he reminds me of Japanese designer Fukada.
After a long day of walking, I headed ot for dinner.
There is a kind of “secret” place worth visiting. Pretty close to where all the tourist restaurants are, you find Casa do Alentejo. Super local. It used to be sort of the “embassy” for people of region Alentejo. They could come here for a decent meal for a cheap price. Very local. Super lovely.