Tokyo is not only the capital of Japan. It also seems to be on everyone’s mind right now. Plenty of people I talk to, have just recently been or plan to go to Tokyo. Here is your trend guide for a design and trend experience in Tokyo.
It is not my first time in Tokyo. I have actually been twice before. You can read about my 2012 trip here. And here. And a bit here. And finally here. Unfortunately in Swedish…
This report will be a kind of guide for you per neighbourhood. But first. My top five from Tokyo.
- 1. Cat Street and Omotesando. I just loved the shops and buildings in this neighborhood.
- 2. Azabudai Hills. New neighborhood. Kind of Disney on drugs. But interesting.
- 3. Roppongi and Tokyo Midtown
- 4. Kagurazaka
- 5. Bookstore Tsatuya
That is a short introduction to my favourites. Here are some insights indepth per area. The reporting here is not hierachial. First area just happens to be a favourite, but the list is not per favourite. It is more my itinerary during a week in Tokyo.
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Cat Street, Omotesando and Shibuya
- My first days in Tokyo was spent in this area. Most people know of the Shibuya crossing, but it is so much more than a crossing. Around the crossing area you have commercial players like IKEA and the big brands, but also a favourite in Tokyu Hands. A fifteen minute walk from the crossing you have the beginning of Cat Street. Yes, it is actually called Cat Street, and this is an area with lower houses, cobblestones and small shops. Plenty of vintage. And halfway through Cat Street you will cross pretty big commercial street of Omotesando with fancy brands in big stores.
To summarize this area, I would say it is a lot about fun fashion, food and casual lifestyle.
Near this area you will find department store Laforet. This is not an ordinary department store. This is where all these Japanese girls (and boys?) buy their super feminine outfits. Somewhere between cosplay and ordinary fashion.
Just next to Laforet you have Nezu museum. In the ground floor you have an amazing craft store. Here they sell tenugui. Google it here. It is basically a handprinted squared piece of cotton fabric that you can use as a scarf or wrapping things up in. Very multifunctional. Best gift you can bring home and super fun to look at different kind of prints. We spent the whole week looking at different kinds of tenugui. Expect to pay around 10 euro for one – so very affordable.
At Omotesando you have a fairly upscale shopping mall called Omotesando Hills. It is by architect Tadao Ando who is one of the leading stars in Japan. Half-empty, as you can see.
Our first night was spent at Trunk hotel. This 15 room hotel is a pure lifestyle destination. The hotel is designed by Keiji Ashizawa and every evening it changes into a full party destination.
Another destination in the Shibuya area is Tokyu Hands. Now with new logo from Nendo. A whole house of craft and small things. Love this.
Just next to Tokyu Hands you have department store Loft. I saw these terrariums with small figures in it at several places in Japan. Looks like a trend…
But speaking of trends. Every department store should have a vintage shop. Of course here too. At Loft you could find a vintage store specializing on British vintage. Fun.
15 minutes from Shibuya crossing you are actually in the Aoyama area, but since it is so close we include this in our Shibuya report. Here you have Muji Found. Most of you have already read about this concept and it is a kind of gallery space for retail brand Muji.
Here they do exhibitions on themes they think is important. Mainly craft. Some of these things are unique for this space, and some things can be found at a Muji nearby.
Almost across the street you have Spiral Gallery. This is a two or three story exhibition space with art, craft and cafe.
Shibuya at night
Akihabara
Akihabara is Games Town. Or Electrical City. Or something like this. In general I would say – skip it. I mean, of course you can go and try a few machines but very repetitive.
What was interesting in this area was the craft stores at 2k540. Underneath the rail tracks in the Akahibara area you had stalls with craft and design. Fun. I even did a bit of more tenugui shopping.
Kagurazaka
Kagurazaka is known as “little Paris” in Tokyo and not a lot of people know this area. But they should. Beautiful cobblestones and small houses. One hotel here is actually an old geisha manor. Not so sure it has a strong French feeling but very cute. And plenty of restaurants. You can see that ALL the chefs of the world line up here for inspiration from the Japanese cuisine. As you see, this is a favourite of mine. Shopping? I of course passed by a craft store for some more tenugui.
Shinjuku
I guess you are wondering – what about Shinjuku? We were staying here most of our nights during a week in Tokyo. But it became more or less a stop for sleeping. A lot of the major attractions we wanted to see were in other parts of the city.
Roppongi
Roppongi is basically the gallery district. Plenty to see here. A must is of course the design museum 21 21 that is designed by Tadao Ando again.
This time the museum did an installation on sustainability and I was not overly impressed. But a good stop…
Next to the museum is Tokyo Midtown, another department store. Here you have some great design shops on the upper level.
Azabudai Hills
One of the newer places in Tokyo is Azabudai Hills. It is a block or a neighborhood that is built, curated and planned by Thomas Heatherwick. Super interesting and super strange. They have done all the right things. There is greenery, shopping, public art and nice galleries. But it doesn’t feel genuine and authentic. Maybe it will grow and you get that later.
One of the fun shops was this place where you go and get your own stock or fond. You point at the various things you want and then the grind it into a powder for you to bring home.
Ginza
Ginza is of course a must on a list like this. Super busy. Kind of the Oxford Street of Tokyo. We started at Ginza Six.
And on the top floor of the department store you have the lovely store of Tsutya. Architecture by Klein Dytham.
I just love that you can buy your own piece of art. Here Yayoi Kusama and a mini version of her infinity rooms.
Next stop is newly opened flagship store at Uniqlo. They have two stores in Ginza so go to the right one…
The whole building is refurbished and done by Swiss architects at Herzog de Mauron.
Guided tour.
Something interesting with the Uniqlo store in Ginza is that they have t-shirts only sold here. And with support of local business. Like this paper store in Ginza.
Now also as a t-shirt.
More in Ginza. Of course you have the fancy brands here – but also interesting architecture. Like the Issey Miyake store by Tokujin Yoshioka. He is deliberately working with the light in the building.
But you also have Muji with unique concepts. Like the diner and the hotel.
And strange architecture like this from Jun Aoki
And of course Japanese beauty brand Shisheido have their own cafe. Yum.
End notes
Before letting you go, there are a few things I want to end off with.
Whenever I have talked to someone about tips for Tokyo the majority of suggestions have been about food. Food is nice and important. But expect lines. Some accept bookings and some don’t.
Not a neighborhood but a destination. Check out Teamlabs. They have a few destinations in the city and apparently more will open. It is all about immersive experience and photo friendly installations. Fun.
There are books about the small public toilets in Tokyo. Apparently the most talked about one is in Shibuya. Missed that. But don’t forget to look out for them.
Public transportation works really well. Just remember to breathe. Sometimes it is sooooo busy and you can feel your pulse raise when everyone is moving around quickly. Just breathe and try to stay calm.